Purchasing Siding, Gutters and Roofs
All About Contractors
Siding, roofing, and gutter
contractors often work through subcontractors – that's just the nature of the
business. You want to make sure that the
subcontractor that does our work is the company's "A Team" who
works for the company on a regular basis and with whom the company's owners are
comfortable. Some firms can quote you a
low price on siding or trim because they can pick up a freelance subcontractor
on an as needed basis. A prior customer
of such a company could be quite satisfied with the project results, but we
could have a different experience because a different crew might be hired to do
our work. You don’t want this to happen
to you. I don't mean to disparage
independent subcontractors – I'm sure that most of them are quite good. However, I'm sure you'll agree that we want
to get good consistent workmanship throughout our neighborhood.
Designing Your Home’s Exterior
CertainTeed
has a computer program at www.certainteed.com/colorview/
that allows you to selected siding, shutter, roof, and trim colors. Of course, the program is keyed to CertainTeed products and colors. However, even if you select another siding or
shutter manufacturer, CertainTeed's
colors and designs are probably close enough to give you some good ideas.
Finally, MidAmerica,
which distributes shutters and a variety of design details such as window
sunbursts and window headers, has a window design program at http://www.tapcoint.com/Midam/web/pages/DIDesignIdeas.html In addition to viewing their products on the
screen, if you choose "Mix 'n' Match" you can see what various window
and shutter designs/colors look like.
Replacement Siding
Very little aluminum siding is made
these days. Nearly all siding sold is
solid vinyl which doesn't fade very much as the color pigment runs through the
siding. Siding is installed by nailing
long sheets to the exterior of the house.
When a single piece of siding is not long enough for the area, multiple
pieces are run end-to-end, with a slight overlap.
You'll want a rigid product that
won't warp and give a wavy appearance when you sight down the side of the
house. Siding generally runs between
.040 inches to .046 inches in thickness.
Although one would think that the thickest siding is the best, thinner
sidings can often perform quite well because other manufacturing details
provide rigidity. I would generally shy
away from .046 siding, though, as it is so thick that the overlap is obtrusive.
Much of today's siding is textured
to simulate wood grain. If the texture
is too deep, it may attract dirt. Also,
some colors will hide dirt better than others.
Another factor is the color of your neighbors' homes. I was originally leaning to beige until I
realized that I am already surrounded by beige colored houses. Yet another beige house would make my
cul-de-sac monotonous, indeed.
There are numerous siding
manufacturers and, quite honestly, I'm of the impression that they all offer
high quality comparable products. There
is a lot of competition in the business and no one company dominates. Installers may steer you toward a particular
manufacturer because they are familiar with it or get an especially good price
or freebies (like a "trade show" in
Two siding brands that seem to be
popular with local installers are CertainTeed and Alside. They are
both pretty good products. You can view
their product lines and learn a lot about siding in general by visiting their
web sites.
CertainTeed www.certainteed.com/cside/csvs00001fu.html
Alside www.alside.com/siding/index.htm
CertainTeed and Alside
are both huge national companies.
Two other popular national brands
are Norandex and Royal.
Norandex www.norandex.com/Siding/general/index.asp?vinyl
Royal www.royalbuildingproducts.com/html/main.html
Also visit the vinyl siding trade
association at www.vinylsiding.org
and learn all kinds of information about vinyl siding.
All of these sites can teach you
about the products and get some ideas on color schemes.
Consumer Reports magazine has a
report on vinyl siding in the August 2003 issue. If you are interested in learning how vinyl
siding is installed, check out "Vinyl Siding Done Right" from Fine
Homebuilding magazine. www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00110.asp
When I spoke with the contractors, I
emphasized that Hickory Farms is a medium priced neighborhood and I suggested a
medium priced siding be included in the bids.
However, don't dismiss a higher quality/priced product out of hand. Price differences in various qualities of
siding are fairly minor. The difference
in price for a higher quality siding could amount to as little as $250 for an
$8,000 siding job. Siding is priced
according to the "square," which is 100 square feet of wall
space. The contractor will measure your
home to estimate how many squares of siding are needed and quote a price per
square.
Any installer can throw up siding. The difference in quality is in how well it
is installed, and it's the small details that can make a big difference
(Remember the A Team discussion?). Does
the installer use special pieces (called J-boxes) around water spigots, dryer
vents, and under exterior lights – or does he just cut the siding around the
water spigot and caulk? Does the
installer replace the existing cheesy plastic gable vents with matching vinyl
vents? What is the warranty (The
manufacturer should offer a product warranty and the installer should offer an
installation warranty)? Does the
installer use J-channel around windows and doors (our original aluminum siding
was installed using caulking between the siding and doors and windows, which
was common at the time) or, if possible, are wide window and door casings and
other techniques used to avoid J-channel (Sometimes, too much J-channel looks
ticky-tacky)? Are the windows flashed
before the siding is installed? Does the
installer use a starter strip at the bottom of the exterior wall and sill trim
under the windows?
You can also order all kinds of
vinyl door headers, sunbursts for over the windows, door surrounds, and other
forms of exterior detail to spruce up your home. They tend to be expensive and they require
ACC approval because they change the exterior appearance of your house. You can view such products at www.tapcoint.com/Midam/web/pages/Homeowners.html
When you negotiate a contract,
consider asking for the following requirements.
Siding Insulation
You might consider having some kind
of insulation installed under the siding.
At least 1/4" of foam insulation might be a good idea. Although it only provides an R-1 insulation
value, it helps flatten out the wall, giving the siding a good installation
surface. It also acts like Tyvek and helps keep drafts from entering the house. Installers like it because it has grid lines
that they use to locate the studs where they need to nail into (you won't
believe how much of our siding is nailed into the Celotex
underlayment and not into studs!). Another consideration is a "P38"
type product which is 3/8" foam covered with a heat reflective
surface. It has an R value of about 3.6
but it costs more than the ¼" insulation.
If you exceed 3/8" thickness, the width of the siding and
insulation could be so great that it exceeds the thickness of the window
frame. Another option is to choose a
siding product which has Styrofoam insulation molded right into the siding
itself. It offers a good insulation
value but tends to be very expensive. If
you're getting insulation, discuss with the contractor whether you really need
it for an unheated garage.
If the width of the area to be sided exceeds the length of the piece of
siding (generally 12'), two or more pieces must be installed with a slight
overlap. The thicker the siding, the
more obtrusive the overlap. This
is why I suggest you shy away from the thickest .046" siding. Although thickness implies rigidity and
strength, the overlaps can be obtrusive on the thickest siding.
The siding
crew will install the siding such that the overlaps point in a direction that
is least obtrusive when you are approaching the house. If overlap orientation is important to you
and you're unsure that the crew will orient the siding as you would like, speak
with the crew foreman and tell him how you want the overlaps oriented.
Also, some
manufacturers such as CertainTeed offer a few types
of siding in 16' long panels. Since
longer panels mean fewer seams, you might consider longer panels if the
visibility of overlaps is a major concern.
Regardless
of what vinyl siding you choose, you'll find that vinyl siding overlaps are
more visible than our existing aluminum siding overlaps. That's because aluminum siding is thinner
than vinyl siding. Vinyl also tends to
flex a bit more than aluminum, thereby making the vinyl overlap a little more
obvious.
I've also
learned of an aspect of the dutch
lap siding that you should be aware of.
Dutch lap siding is designed to simulate a wooden plank. Thus, once it is installed, there is a void
between the vinyl siding and the exterior of the house. If you press the siding, it will give a
little bit. All things being equal, this
could make the dutch lap
siding a little more prone to breakage than traditional clapboard siding. Some dutch
lap sidings have the void filled with Styrofoam which provides more rigidity
and significantly more insulating value; it is also very, very expensive.
Finally, whether you choose dutch lap or clapboard siding such
as the Alside Odyssey Plus, I recommend 5" wide
panels (they come in both 4" and 5").
Existing aluminum panels on our homes are either 4" or
8". In my opinion, the 4"
panels make the house look "too busy." And, dutch
lap has an extra crease as compared with clapboard. So, all things being equal, dutch lap siding looks "more
busy" than clapboard siding.
Shutters
Your existing shutters will
have to be removed when the old siding is removed. Do you want to reinstall your old
shutters, particularly if they are wooden ones that need to be repainted? You might consider replacing your
shutters with new vinyl ones that will not fade or chip. They're fairly inexpensive (about $30-40
a set at Home Depot) and the contractor may give you a good deal because
it's easier to tear down the old brittle shutters and junk them. Although louvered shutters were
installed when our homes were built, some folks are opting for raised
panel shutters. Finally, you might
consider installing shutters on some windows that currently do not have
them, such as on the sides of the garage and house. If the window is visible from the
street, it probably ought to have shutters. Regarding warranty, consider asking for
10 years workmanship/installation warranty, transferable to one new owner.
The shutter itself should have a manufacturer’s specified warranty.
Replacement Exterior Lights
If you have
lights mounted on your siding, the contractor should remove and reinstall
them. I’ll bet that your current
exterior lights are in dire need of replacement. So, rather than making a late night run to
Home Depot or Lowes in the middle of the remodeling
project, buy those replacement fixtures now and have them on hand for
when the contractor installs your siding.
Home Depot seems to have a better selection of fixtures than Lowes. Check the
local lighting stores. Sometimes the
will meet or beat the big box stores, and they have a better selection. You'll notice vast price differences between
solid brass and brass finished fixtures.
You can get a brass finished fixture for around $25, but it will corrode
after only a few years. For $100, you
can get a solid brass fixture with a “lifetime” finish guarantee (In all
honesty, no finish will last a lifetime.
The higher price basically buys you insurance that the manufacturer will
replace the lamp as long as you own your home).
The $100 fixture might be the better buy over the long run.
Trim
Our homes have wood trim that needs
to be painted periodically. A lot of
folks want to have it covered so that they no longer have to paint it. You can trim the roof overhangs (soffits), the wood trim around the perimeter of the roof
(rakes and fascia), and around doors, windows, and garages. A very crude cost estimate for vinyl coated
aluminum trim is two times the cost of having your exterior trim painted. Installing trim is a very labor intensive
activity. The technician has to measure
each piece of wood and bend the trim material to fit precisely. The material is then nailed to the wood and
the corners caulked. 45 degree corner
angles are a sign of quality. Also,
decide whether you want the detail of your existing woodwork preserved. You can have trim done very inexpensively if
you only want a simple box covering an intricately molded piece of wood. Matching the intricate shape of trimwork is costly.
Think carefully, though, about whether you want trim around doors and
garages as they tend to get dinged, especially with children around. A dinged painted door frame can be repainted,
but a dinged trimmed door frame may have to be retrimmed
(or painted).
When you negotiate a contract,
consider asking for the following requirements.
Replacement Windows
Although some folks (like me) are
considering completely removing their existing windows and replacing them with
new construction windows, that involves removing, replacing, and painting all
of the interior window trim. It's very time consuming and expensive, but you can get a
beautiful new wooden (interior) vinyl (exterior) new construction window such
as an Andersen,
Most of the folks in the
neighborhood who have replaced their old drafty windows have chosen the vinyl
replacement window route. Here, the
existing window frame stays in place.
The storm window and existing window sashes are removed from the outside. They are replaced with what is essentially a
completely new vinyl window and frame.
The existing wooden frame is then trimmed in the same manner as
described above, so that it never has to be painted. This trim is included in the price of the
replacement window. There are a lot of
advantages to replacement windows over new construction windows, the first
being that an installer can replace all of your windows in a single day. The second is that they're cheaper.
Replacement windows are usually made
of solid vinyl with a limited number of colors.
They tilt out for easy cleaning.
You should insist on double pane windows. They can be filled with argon gas and a
nearly invisible heat reflective "low E-coating" that keeps the house
cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter, as well as keeping out much of
the rays than fade furniture, drapes, and carpet. You can upgrade from argon to krypton gas for
an even higher insulating value (but that would mean that you couldn't let
Superman near your windows!) Also, gas
filled double pane windows are noted for reducing outside sounds better than
our existing windows.
As with the siding, the two brands
that the local installers seem to prefer are CertainTeed
and Alside.
They are both pretty good products.
You can visit
CertainTeed www.certainteed.com/cwindows
Alside www.alside.com/windows
Vytex www.vytexwindows.com/homeowner.shtml
Another good source of information
is www.vinyl-replacement-windows.org
The National Fenestration Rating
Council at www.nfrc.org/select.html
evaluates the insulating qualities of many products, including replacement
windows. If the window is not rated by
the NFRC, the manufacturer might be trying to hide something – be suspicious. The NFRC sticker allows you to compare the
insulating qualities of various windows.
Consumer Reports magazine has a
report on windows in its October 2000 issue, and rated the CertainTeed
Bryn Mawr II pretty well. It's a good window and any contractor will
sell you one if you ask. However, there
are a lot of other good windows out there, and you might get a better price on
a different window.
Fine Homebuilding Magazine has a
good article on energy efficient windows at www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00029.asp
Another good source of information
is the Fall 2003/Winter 2004 issue of Consumer
Checkbook magazine (which is a local version of Consumer Reports). It's available at the Fairfax Library or you
can order the article online for $10 at www.checkbook.org/cgi-bin/download/default.cfm?action=showsummary&FileID=132
(Here's a plug for Consumer
Checkbook: Please subscribe by visiting www.checkbook.org. I've been a subscriber for years and they
provide a great service to us homeowner types.
Consumer Checkbook rates home repair firms, doctors, restaurants,
dentists, federal employee health plans, grocery stores, vets, insurance, and
lots of other things. Their articles
tend to be more comprehensive than Consumer Reports.)
When purchasing
windows, consider the warranty (both manufacturer's and installer's).
The manufacturer's warranty is particularly important because if the
seal between the two glass panes fails, the window fogs up and the glass will
have to be replaced. Some contractors
will include a manufacturer's lifetime glass breakage warranty in case it gets
struck by an errant baseball. Some
windows use tempered glass which is less prone to breakage. Check if the warranties transfer should you
sell your home.
A major consideration with
replacement windows is loss of glass area.
It is for this reason that I was initially tending towards new
construction windows rather than replacement windows. Because our homes were built shortly after
the mid 1970's energy crisis, the windows are on the smallish side and our homes
tend to be dark inside. Our basic home
designs, though, have been around for quite a while. For example, I have a 5 bedroom colonial that
was built in 1981. My carpool buddy has
the identical home built in 1969 in
Our existing double sash windows
have six or nine individual glass panels in each sash. Replacement windows use single panes of glass. The individual pane effect is simulated
through plastic grids installed between the panes. If you are ordering grids, consider asking
for ones that simulate our Colonial look, rather than the ½" flat ones you see in a lot of
newly constructed homes.
Speaking of windows, you might
consider replacing those single pane casement windows you have in the basement
or bathroom as well as that drafty basement sliding glass door. Basement windows and doors with low E glass
can make quite a difference in comfort.
Based upon my discussions with
installers, I get the impression that replacement windows are one of the
highest markup items in their package.
Most of the other products require a lot of skilled labor which is fixed
and pretty much costs the same whomever you hire. For windows, it is the cost of the window
itself that forms the bulk of the total cost.
So it comes down to how much markup the installer is willing to sacrifice
in order to get the job.
How much glass area will be lost due
to the frame width? Is the material that
separates the glass panes a low conducting material to reduce heat transmission
(aluminum is not good)? Do both
sashes tilt for easy cleaning?
Here are some questions to ask about
replacement windows: What is the NRFC U-factor, or insulating factor (lower is better)? Does the U-factor apply to the glass only, or
to the entire window? A single pane of
glass in an aluminum frame has a U-factor of 1.
An expensive high tech window might go as low as .1. Most replacement windows are in the range of
.35-.5.
The NRFC also rates windows for
Solar Heat Gain Coefficient. Numbers
range from 0 to 1, with the higher numbers meaning that the window allows the
sun's heat to get indoors. A high number
may be great in the winter but not so good in the summer. A Solar Heat Gain Coefficient in the range of
.4-.55 is probably acceptable for our region.
Visible Transmittance is also
evaluated by the NRFC. Numbers range
from 0 to 1, with the higher numbers allowing in more light.
Are the corners of the vinyl windows
welded rather than screwed (Screws had a bad rep several years ago and have
gotten much better, but welded is still considered the better quality)? What are the warranties (including leakage
and glass breakage) and who will back them up?
Do you really need a high tech insulating window for an unheated
garage? Some windows also have the
Energy Star label which identifies them as being suitable for a specific
region. You might consider frosted
windows for bathrooms or the garage.
If you really want to get fancy, you
can order different window types for South and West facing sunny windows than
North facing windows that don't get direct sunlight. But for most of us, a double pane argon
filled low E window is probably a reasonable choice for most of our windows.
When you negotiate a contract,
consider asking for the following requirements.
·
Windows
include: argon filled, low-E film, Colonial grills to match existing
configuration, double strength glass, ½ screen, and exterior casing capped with
an architectural bend with miter cut corners
·
Remove
and dispose of all windows/storm windows
·
Cap
and caulk exterior, using brick mould bends and 45 degree miter corners
·
Cap
steel header
·
Complete
site cleanup upon completion of work
·
Caulk
interior with paintable 40+ years caulk, such as Siroflex. Exterior to be 40+ year caulk, such as OSI Quad.
Gutters and Downspouts
Aluminum gutters and downspouts
(sometimes called "leaders") are priced by the foot and come in a colors, although most homeowners choose white.
Gutters are often installed using
spikes (large nails) which tend to work themselves out over time. A better, but more expensive, alternative is
a hidden hanger system which uses screws rather than spikes. Since the screws are inside the gutter, there
are no spike heads or screwheads to mar the gutter
appearance.
You might also consider oversized
gutters. I had 6" wide gutters
installed two years ago and have been very pleased with them. They can handle the heaviest downpour but, more
importantly, they tend to clog less than the smaller standard sized gutters.
If the contractor offers it, you
also might consider screens to keep the leaves and twigs out of the
gutters. I've tried several on my own
with varying success. I've tried plastic
screens from Home Depot and aluminum flip up screens, and neither worked
well. What is working well for me right
now is a screw on metal mesh screen that was installed by the contractor.
When you negotiate a contract,
consider asking for the following requirements.
·
Remove
& haul away existing gutters
·
Install
gutters and downspouts specified in contract using hidden hangers
·
Complete
site cleanup upon completion of work ("broom clause")
Roof Replacement
To get up to speed
on roofing replacement, you mightread the
Spring/Summer 2000 issue of Washington Consumers' Checkbook magazine, available
at the Fairfax Regional Library.
If you get a new roof, I strongly
recommend you specify a ridge vent. It
keeps the upper floor cooler in the summer and helps prevent water condensation
and ice damming in the winter. However,
ridge vent is probably not needed for garages and carports. Ice shield installed along the lower part of
the roof is required by code and also helps to prevent ice damming (Kirk
experienced ice damming 16 years ago and it was a miserable and expensive
experience). Homes with heating ductwork
in the attic such as the colonial models (and 5 BR in particular) are
especially prone to ice damming under certain winter conditions, and could
probably benefit from a ridge vent.
The standard roofing material is
what is known as a three tab shingle.
Another consideration is what is known as a dimensional (or
architectural) shingle. This is a
thicker shingle that provides a very pleasing look. Kirk is very pleased with his six year old
dimensional shingle roof and feels that its unique appearance was well worth
the additional cost.
Approval from the Architectural
Control Committee is required before
construction begins if you are changing either the color or style of your
roof. If you are switching from a three
tab shingle to a dimensional shingle, ACC approval is required. You do not need approval if you are simply
replacing a three tab roof shingle with one of the same color.
When you negotiate a contract,
consider asking for the following requirements.
·
Remove
and haul away all existing roofing and debris.
·
Check
and inspect plywood for damage. Replace price should be specified.
·
Furnish
and install 15lb felt paper, drip edge, step flashing, pipe collars, and ice
shield according to code.
·
All
shingles installed with 4 nails per shingle using 1¼" galvanized nails.
·
Clean
out and tap gutters back into place.
·
Clean
all yard debris with magnet as required.
·
Caulk
as required.
·
Five
year labor warranty on all workmanship
·
Manufacturer's
warranty on shingles
Contract Matters
Many
contractors try to get as large a downpayment as
possible. Try for only a 20% of deposit
with remainder upon “total satisfaction of purchaser.” If the contract is signed at your home, you
have three days cooling off period to cancel.
If you have problems with your remodeling job, first try to work it out
with the contractor. The Fairfax County
Office of Consumer Affairs and Better Business Bureau can also advise you
regarding consumer problems.
This page last updated 10/3/04
(c) 2004 by
Kirk F. Randall. No part of this
document may be reproduced or transmitted without prior permission of the
author.
Purchasing
Siding, Gutters and Roofs